International Man of Mystery...

My photo
I grew up in the Boston area and lived there until my junior year in high school when I attended the Mountain School, a semester program run by Milton Academy in Vershire, VT. I then attended Colby College in Waterville, ME. During my time at Colby I studied anthropology, spent a semester in Northeast India, and became fluent in Nepali. Before I became a guide I earned my black belt in kenpo karate and taught karate for 6 years. I began guiding in college on the rocky coast of ME with Acadia Mountain Guides and on ice at the International Mountain Climbing School in NH. After graduating I took to the highway and drove from ME to WA for the big mountains and glaciers. I spend my winters in lovely Ouray, CO guiding in the famous ice park. I am currently working towards becoming a certified guide through the American Mountain Guides Association. I live, work and play in the hills and on the rocks. On the rocks both literally and, well, with ice.

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Guide's Day Out

People often ask me if I climb in the Ice Park on my days off. Of course! While I love the steep ice lines in the park It is the mixed lines that really hold my attention. These routes are pumpy and often tenuous affairs that push you to climb with maximum efficiency.

People don't often think of projecting and winter climbing in the same vein but projecting mixed climbs can be a really fun activity for day or two in the park. while I prefer to lead bolted rock climbs, but with all the sharp things around mixed climbing I prefer to learn the moves on top rope.

I like to lead the routes once I feel like I can climb the route in control the whole time even if I do hang on a draw or whip. Because the routes are steep the falls are usually clean. I like to lead the routes with as few tries as possible but every route is different technically as well as mentally and it is hard to compare them. I was super excited to send Chinese Water Torture, M9 in the Scottish Gullies at the Ice Park. This is a great route, check it out!

No comments:

Post a Comment