A couple days ago wrapped up my final trip on Mount Rainier for the season. The conditions on the Disappointment Cleaver were very exciting indeed! The usual climbers trail that forms up the Cleaver was blown over with snow and the rock trail was filled in as well. Our team fought gusts up to 45mph as we cramponed up the steep untrammeled slopes of the Cleaver. As we worked our way up we were concerned about the possibility of small avalanches on our descent of the Cleaver from pockets of snow collected by the rocks. We continued to the top of the Cleaver to continue to assess conditions on the upper mountain.
From the top of the Cleaver, the traverse out onto the Emmons Glacier was steep firm, and heavily loaded with snow. We feared as the day warmed up the avalanche conditions would become increasingly 'spicy' as well. The potential for avalanches, in addition to the steep, difficult climbing lead us to turn the climb around at the top of the cleaver.
I love to summit but the trail-less Cleaver presents some of my favorite guiding conditions. It requires good rope technique and constant reassessment of the snow, the climbers, and the route, all very exciting! On this particular trip I had the pleasure of climbing with some really fun folks. The team was comprised of two couples from Burlington, VT, three long time friends from Milwaukee, and a local. While we did not get to summit everyone was in great spirits having pushed beyond their comfort zones and having enjoyed one of the best sunrises I have seen all summer as we descended to the Ingraham Flats. Congratulations everyone on a safe and fun climb!
It was an exciting climb. The Disappointment Cleaver route goes way out to the Emmons shoulder this time of year. There is always a tricky crevasse and ladder crossing there which, if we don't get any snow in the next few weeks will become a problem. There is another ladder over the bergschrund (the highest crevasse on a glacier) which leads to gentler terrain above.
