The Black Canyon

Only 2 hours from our office in Ouray, CO, The Black Canyon is home to some of the most adventurous, not to mention spectacular, rock climbing in the lower 48. The Black is one of those places that it is easy to fall in love with. The giant canyon drops, in some places up to 2,000 feet, down to the Gunnison River. The canyon is all but invisible until you round a corner to hike down into it and suddenly the spectacular scenery unfolds below you.

Though guided access was recently threatened in the Black Canyon, thanks to CO legislators, companies with permits like SJMG can guide the incredible multi pitch rock routes in the canyon. With many long 5.8, 5.9, and 5.10 rock climbs the Black Canyon is a great place for intermediate and advanced climbers to experience a wild multi pitch outing. Because it is a canyon, the climbs in the Black top out at or near the campground (and beer cooler) tucked away in the junipers.

Yesterday I climbed a pleasant 5.9 in the canyon named, Casually Off Route. The climb is not very sustained at 5.9, only a couple hard moves, and makes for a great introduction to climbing in this unique and unforgettable venue.

Ouray Rocks!

Ouray is, of course, world famous for its ice climbing. When spring time comes and you put the ice tools away you shouldn't stop thinking of Ouray.

Have you ever sat in the hot springs looking up at the cliffs above? There are hundreds of rock climbs sprinkled throughout Ouray from single pitch sport climbs to long adventurous multi-pitch routes.

Imagine a couple days of rock climbing followed by an alpine ascent into the rugged Sneffels Range or the incredible Grenadiers.



In the spring, the airport ramps up its flight schedules making logistics of getting here even simpler. At the same time mining roads that wind up into the mountains are cleared. Ouray's already incredible access only gets better! The only question is when do you want to come climb?

San Juan Spring Skiing

Let me share two secrets about the Colorado's San Juans with you. Secret number 1: The ice is great in the late fall. Secret number 2: Spring is the time to ski! The spring melt freeze changes the shapes of the snow crystals. It turns them into rounds that skiers call "corn". This corn makes for creamy, smooth, and fast skiing. The consistency of the snow means that you can ski a bit more aggressively, like you might on a groomed trail, than winter's variable conditions allow.

Not only do the great conditions make spring skiing a joy, the warm temps make for pleasant, warm, touring. Touring in the sunshine, it is hard to not to go to the summit of the many 12k and 13k peaks in the area. From these summits, skiers can enjoy wide open alpine bowl skiing or skinny couloir skiing, take your pick.

Come check it out!

Sneffel's Range Reconnoiter

There is an imposing group of mountains that sit on the horizon as you drive from Ouray through Ridgway to Telluride. This group of mountains are the most rugged peaks in the Rocky Mountain sub range, the San Juans. This is the Sneffles range. Named for Mount Sneffels a 14k peak.

While I have often glimpsed these peaks on my way back form getting groceries in Montrose, I hade never visited them until recently. Phillipe and I decided to ski up into the Sneffles range for a ski mountaineering adventure.

We skied close to ten miles to right below the summit of Reconnoiter peak. The peak is capped by a 80 foot rock pinnacle. Since we had no rock climbing gear and we had our ski boots on our feet, we could not find a weakness that would lead to the summit.


 The prominent couloir to the west (left) of the peak  made for an exciting ski descent. Though the upper section was full of breakable wind crust, the bottom was pure San Juan ski bliss. The Sneffels Range is home to some of Colorado's best technical mountaineering. I cannot wait for my next chance to visit this unique range.

Still Kickin' (and Swingin')

So it has been a while since we were last able to post simply because we have been so busy taking people from all over the country ice climbing all over the San Juans. From the Ice Park, to Camp Bird Road, to Telluride, to Silverton. 

It is such a joy sharing ice climbing with climbers of all levels. Whether it is teaching people to plant their front points solidly into the ice for the first time, or taking them up one of the areas famous hard-man (or woman) climbs, we love getting people out on the ice.

Even though some people are thinking spring, as I look out my window at the latest snow storm I know that the ice climbing and backcountry skiing will stay good for a while to come. If you haven't had the chance to come climb or ski with us yet this year, give us a call, we would love to take you out!

Twofer

I got to spend yesterday climbing with Marista and John from OH. Though they had never climbed in the Ouray back country before they had done a bunch of climbing out east and in the Ice Park. I was thrilled to show these two the gems that lay outside the Ice Park.

We managed to tick off two classic Ouray lines with wildly different character. The First, Dexter Slabs, Was a wide open flow with incredible views of the Mount Ridgeway and the Uncomphagre Gorge. We finished that around noon and drove up Camp Bird Road to climb the classic ice chimney Skylight. Marista and John thought the ice chimneying was 'the craziest route' they had ever done. Thanks for a great day guys!
 

Keeping it Real in Ouray

Wow, what a crazy month! I have been fortunate to climb with a number of awesome folks from all over the country within and outside the ice park. I had the opportunity to teach two people to lead ice climbs, I guided Bridal Veil Falls, and made the ascent of an obscure trad mixed line on Camp Bird road. I admit, I have been so busy I have been slacking on the blog posting, I am sorry.

Now I am sore and content. Oh, and I am psyched to go climbing tomorrow!